Content
by: Lonely Planet
Bible stories, lost cities, Lawrence of Arabia - Jordan
has romantic associations up to its eyeballs. It's a
country that ought to be awash with tourists, but the
Middle East's bad rep has kept them away in droves. Don't
be fooled: Jordan is, on the whole, peaceful. More than
that, it's one of the most welcoming, hospitable countries
in the world, and doesn't even have that unsettlingly
male-oriented feel so prevalent elsewhere in the region.
Where else could you leave your belongings on the street
for hours at a time, safe in the knowledge they'll be
there when you get back? Where else do total strangers
invite you into their homes despite the fact they don't
own a carpet shop?
Jordan isn't just a friendly cup of tea with the
locals, though. It's also home to two of the most
spectacular sights in the Middle East. Petra, the ancient
city of the Nabateans, may be overrun with snap-happy
day-trippers, but that doesn't change the fact that it's
one of the world's most atmospheric ruins. For a slightly
more contemplative experience, the startling desert
scenery of Wadi Rum enraptured Lawrence of Arabia and has
caused more than one traveller to don a kaffiyeh
and gaze defiantly into the middle distance.
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Jordan is bounded to the north by Syria, to the
north-east by Iraq, to the east and south by Saudi
Arabia and to the west by Israel. Jordan has three
distinct geographic zones: the fertile Jordan Valley
which runs down the western side of the country; the
East Bank plateau, where most of the main towns are;
and the East Bank, a desert which stretches east
into Syria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Jordan is a
smallish country with a strange shape. An apocryphal
story holds that the lumpy eastern border was
created by Winston Churchill after a very liquid
lunch.
The pine forests of the north give way to the
cultivated slopes of the Jordan Valley, covered in
cedar, olive and eucalypt. Further south, towards
the Dead Sea, vegetation can't survive and the
landscape is dominated by mud and salt flats. The
desert regions of the country support the usual
desert fauna - camels, desert fox, sand rats, hares
and jerboas - while the hills to the north-east of
the Dead Sea are home to boars, badgers and goats.
Jordan is particularly noted for its aquatic life,
and the Gulf of Aqaba has a huge variety of tropical
fish and coral. The country's biggest sanctuary is
the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve in the east, where
gazelle and oryx, once common throughout Jordan,
have been reintroduced.
Climate varies dramatically from one end of the
country to the other. The Jordan Valley can be
incredibly hot in summer (usually around 40 degrees
Celsius), while Amman and Petra occasionally get
snow in winter. The Plateau area is usually warm and
dry, fluctuating between the low 20s and high 30s,
while the desert suffers extremes of temperature -
baking dry heat interspersed with freezing winds
from Central Asia.
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Full
country name: Hasemite Kingdom of Jordan
Area: 91,860 sq km
Population: 4.95 million
Capital city: Amman (pop 1.58 million)
People: Arabs (60% Palestinian, many
refugees), Circassians, Chechens, Armenians
Language: Arabic
Religion: Islam
Government: Monarchy (fledgling democracy)
Head of State: King Hussein
Economic Profile
GDP: US$36,026,900
World GDP ranking:50
GDP per head: US$1373
Annual growth: 5%
Inflation: 9%
Major industries: Agriculture, minerals,
manufacturing
Major trading partners: India, Saudi Arabia,
European Union
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Due to Jordan's small size any destination
within the country may be reached by road from
the capital, Amman, in a day.
Amman
Amman, the capital since 1921,
contains about a third of the population. It
was formerly the Ammonite capital of
Rabbath-Ammon and later the Graeco-Roman city
of Philadelphia. Amman, often referred to as
the ?white city?, was originally, like Rome,
built on seven hills which still form its
natural focal points. With extensive modern
building projects, Amman is now very well
equipped with excellent hotels and tourist
facilities, especially in the Jabal
(hill) areas. The central soukis lively
and interesting and provides a taste of a more
traditional city. Remains from Roman, Greek
and Ottoman Turk occupations are dotted around
the city, the main attraction being the Roman
amphitheatre from the 2nd century AD in the
centre of the city. There is also the Jebel
el Qalat (citadel) which houses the Archaeological
Museum; the National Gallery of Fine
Arts and Popular Museum of Costume and
Jewellery. Amman is very well placed for
excursions to the other parts of the country.
North of Amman
Jerash is less than one hour's drive
from Amman through the picturesque hills of
ancient Gilead. A magnificent Graeco-Roman
city on an ancient site, beautifully preserved
by the desert sands, Jerash is justly famous
for the Triumphal Arch, the Hippodrome,
the great elliptical forum, the theatres,
baths and gateways, the Roman bridge and the
wide street of columns which leads to the Temple
of Artemis.Son et lumière programmes run
in four different languages (French, English,
German and Arabic). Other languages can be
catered for upon request. For information on
festivals in Jerash, seeSpecial Events
in the Social Profile section below.
Irbid, which is 77km (49 miles) from
Amman, is a city of Roman tombs and statues,
and narrow streets with close-packed shops and
arched entrances. Umm Qais in the far
north of the country, the Biblical ?Gadara?,
dominates the area round Lake Tiberias (Sea
of Galilee). Once a city favoured by the
Romans for its hot springs and theatres, it
had declined to a small village by the time of
the Islamic conquests. Its ruins, however, are
still impressive: the Acropolisbuilt in
218BC, the forum, the colonnaded street with
still-visible chariot tracks and the Nymphaeum
and remains of a large basilica. Returning
along the northwest border from Umm Qais to
Jerash through the lush scenery of the Jordan
River Valley,one can visit the town of AlHammeh,
in sight of the Israeli-occupied Golan
Heights, a town known for its hot springs
and mineral waters; and Pella, once a
city of the Roman Decapolis, now being
excavated, and the hilltop castle of Qalaat
al-Rabadh built by the Arabs in defence
against the crusaders. The scenery in this
surprisingly fertile part of Jordan is often
very beautiful, especially in the spring when
the Jordan Valley and surrounding area is
covered in flowers.
East of Amman
Towards Azraq and beyond is the vast
desert which makes up so much of Jordan.
Within this arid landscape are the fertile
oases of the Shaumari and Azraq
Wetland Parks, now run with the help of
the World Wildlife Fund. Wild animals once
native to Jordan, such as the oryx and
gazelle, are being re-introduced, while the
wetlands are visited by thousands of migratory
birds each year. The Shaumari was
opened in October 1983 in an attempt to
protect the country's dwindling oryx
population. There are plans to open a further
ten wildlife reserves which will cover more
than 4100 sq km (1580 sq miles). The project
is being organised by the Jordanian Royal
Society for the Conservation of Nature, a body
which has recently stepped up its efforts to
protect the country's wildlife and to prevent
pollution affecting the very busy port of
Aqaba. Severe fines are imposed on anyone
contravening Jordan's strict laws on these
matters.
Also in the east are the desert Umayyad
castles (Qasr) of Amra and Al-Kharanah.
Built as hunting lodges and to protect caravan
routes, they are well preserved with frescoes
and beautiful vaulted rooms.
West of Amman
Salt, once the Biblical ?Gilead?, is
a now a small town set in a fertile landscape,
retaining much of its old character as a
former leading city of Transjordan.
Filled with the character, sights, sounds and
aromas of an old Arab town with its narrow souk,
its innumerable flights of steps, and its
donkeys and coffee houses, it has a tolerant,
friendly, oriental atmosphere. 24km (15 miles)
from Amman is Iraq al-Amir,the only
Hellenistic palace still to be seen in the
Middle East.
South of Amman
The Dead Sea, 392m (1286ft) below
sea level and the lowest point on earth,
glistens by day and night in an eerie, dry
landscape. The Biblical cities of Sodom and
Gomorrah are thought to be beneath its waters.
Supporting no life and having no outlet, even
the non-swimmer can float freely in the rich
salt water. The Dead Sea at the end of the River
Jordan is the natural barrier between
Jordan and the occupied West Bank.
There are three routes from Amman to Aqaba,
the most picturesque being The King's
Highway, the whole length of which is
dotted with places of interest. Madaba
and nearby Mount Nebo, where Moses is
said to have struck the rock, were both
flourishing Byzantine towns and have churches
and well-preserved mosaics. In Madaba there
are also ancient maps of 6th-century
Palestine, a museum and an old family
carpet-making industry which uses ancient
looms. Off the Highway is Mukawir, a
small village near the ruins of Machaerus
of Herod Antipas, where Salome danced.
From the summit of nearby Qasr al-Meshneque,where
St John was beheaded, is a magnificent view of
the Dead Sea, and sometimes even of Jerusalem
and the Mount of Olives.Nearby Zarqa
Main has hot mineral-water springs. Rugged
scenery characterises this area; deep gorges,
waterfalls, white rocks, small oases, birds
and wild flowers. Further south on the Highway
is Kerak, a beautiful medieval town
surrounded by high walls and with a castle.
Other places of historical, scenic or
religious interest along the route before
Petra include Mutahand Mazar,Tafila,Edomite
Qasr Buseirahand the magnificent crusader
hill fortress, Shaubek Castle.
Petra is one of the wonders of the
Middle-Eastern world: a gigantic natural
amphitheatre hidden in the rocks out of which
a delicately coloured city with immense façades
has been carved; it was lost for hundreds of
years and only rediscovered in 1812. The
temples and caves of Petra rest high up above
a chasm, with huge white rocks forming the Bab,
or gate, of theSiq, the narrow entrance
which towers over 21m (70ft) high. Until
recently the rock caves were still inhabited
by Bedouins. Most of this unique city was
built by the Nabatean Arabs in the 5th and 6th
centuries BC as an important link in the
caravan routes. It was added to by the Romans
who carved out a huge theatre and, possibly,
the spectacular classical façade of the Khazneh(treasury).
Away from the road, it is only possible to
reach Petra on horseback. This city of rock
stairs, rock streets, rock-carved tombs and
dwellings and temples has among its other
attractions the Qasr al-Bint castle
shrine and the Al-Habiscaves and
museums; while a short distance away from the
more commercialised site of Petra is Al-Barid
where a number of tombs lie in solitude and
tranquillity among the rocks. There is a rest
house in Petra built against the rock wall
near the beginning of theSiq, where it
is advisable to book early in season, but is
bitterly cold in winter. A variety of hotels
offer accommodation. The last stop south
before Aqaba is Wadi Rum, about five
hours from Amman by road. A Beau Geste-type
fort run by the colourful Desert Patrol (Camel
Corps), it was built to defend the valley in a
great plain of escarpments and desert
wilderness, and is a place strongly associated
with T E Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia). Many
Bedouins, of a tribe thought to be descended
from Muhammed, still live in the valley in
tents. Some tours will arrange trips into the
desert to stay with a Bedouin tribe or camping
in the valley, a round trip being 97km (60
miles).
Aqaba: At the northeast end of the Gulf
of Aqabais Jordan's only port, and can be
reached from Amman by road or air. It has
grown considerably over the past few years,
both as a port and as a tourist centre, due in
part to its excellent beach and watersports
facilities, and its low humidity and hot
climate. The town has a variety of small shops
and several good restaurants, and it leaves
most of the other tourist facilities to be
provided for by the hotels. These include
windsurfing, scuba diving, sailing and
fishing. Most hotels have swimming pools, and
will offer continental and some traditional
cuisine. Some provide business and conference
facilities and excursions to Amman, Petra and
Wadi Rum. A year-round resort, Aqaba boasts
some of the best coral-reef diving and
snorkelling sites in the world, often very
close to shore, in a water temperature which
rarely falls below 20?C.
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The
best time to visit Jordan is in spring or
autumn, when you can dodge the baking sun of
summer and the freezing winds of winter.
Although winter can be bitterly cold in most
of the country, the Red Sea area and Aqaba are
still very pleasant. If you're planning to
travel through the rest of the Middle East,
try heading north into Turkey around spring,
or south into Egypt by autumn.
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