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Jordan

Content by:  Lonely Planet
Bible stories, lost cities, Lawrence of Arabia - Jordan has romantic associations up to its eyeballs. It's a country that ought to be awash with tourists, but the Middle East's bad rep has kept them away in droves. Don't be fooled: Jordan is, on the whole, peaceful. More than that, it's one of the most welcoming, hospitable countries in the world, and doesn't even have that unsettlingly male-oriented feel so prevalent elsewhere in the region. Where else could you leave your belongings on the street for hours at a time, safe in the knowledge they'll be there when you get back? Where else do total strangers invite you into their homes despite the fact they don't own a carpet shop?

Jordan isn't just a friendly cup of tea with the locals, though. It's also home to two of the most spectacular sights in the Middle East. Petra, the ancient city of the Nabateans, may be overrun with snap-happy day-trippers, but that doesn't change the fact that it's one of the world's most atmospheric ruins. For a slightly more contemplative experience, the startling desert scenery of Wadi Rum enraptured Lawrence of Arabia and has caused more than one traveller to don a kaffiyeh and gaze defiantly into the middle distance.

Jordan is bounded to the north by Syria, to the north-east by Iraq, to the east and south by Saudi Arabia and to the west by Israel. Jordan has three distinct geographic zones: the fertile Jordan Valley which runs down the western side of the country; the East Bank plateau, where most of the main towns are; and the East Bank, a desert which stretches east into Syria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Jordan is a smallish country with a strange shape. An apocryphal story holds that the lumpy eastern border was created by Winston Churchill after a very liquid lunch.

The pine forests of the north give way to the cultivated slopes of the Jordan Valley, covered in cedar, olive and eucalypt. Further south, towards the Dead Sea, vegetation can't survive and the landscape is dominated by mud and salt flats. The desert regions of the country support the usual desert fauna - camels, desert fox, sand rats, hares and jerboas - while the hills to the north-east of the Dead Sea are home to boars, badgers and goats. Jordan is particularly noted for its aquatic life, and the Gulf of Aqaba has a huge variety of tropical fish and coral. The country's biggest sanctuary is the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve in the east, where gazelle and oryx, once common throughout Jordan, have been reintroduced.

Climate varies dramatically from one end of the country to the other. The Jordan Valley can be incredibly hot in summer (usually around 40 degrees Celsius), while Amman and Petra occasionally get snow in winter. The Plateau area is usually warm and dry, fluctuating between the low 20s and high 30s, while the desert suffers extremes of temperature - baking dry heat interspersed with freezing winds from Central Asia.

Full country name: Hasemite Kingdom of Jordan
Area: 91,860 sq km
Population: 4.95 million
Capital city: Amman (pop 1.58 million)
People: Arabs (60% Palestinian, many refugees), Circassians, Chechens, Armenians
Language: Arabic
Religion: Islam
Government: Monarchy (fledgling democracy)
Head of State: King Hussein

Economic Profile

GDP: US$36,026,900
World GDP ranking:50
GDP per head: US$1373
Annual growth: 5%
Inflation: 9%
Major industries: Agriculture, minerals, manufacturing
Major trading partners: India, Saudi Arabia, European Union

Due to Jordan's small size any destination within the country may be reached by road from the capital, Amman, in a day.

Amman

Amman, the capital since 1921, contains about a third of the population. It was formerly the Ammonite capital of Rabbath-Ammon and later the Graeco-Roman city of Philadelphia. Amman, often referred to as the ?white city?, was originally, like Rome, built on seven hills which still form its natural focal points. With extensive modern building projects, Amman is now very well equipped with excellent hotels and tourist facilities, especially in the Jabal (hill) areas. The central soukis lively and interesting and provides a taste of a more traditional city. Remains from Roman, Greek and Ottoman Turk occupations are dotted around the city, the main attraction being the Roman amphitheatre from the 2nd century AD in the centre of the city. There is also the Jebel el Qalat (citadel) which houses the Archaeological Museum; the National Gallery of Fine Arts and Popular Museum of Costume and Jewellery. Amman is very well placed for excursions to the other parts of the country.

North of Amman

Jerash is less than one hour's drive from Amman through the picturesque hills of ancient Gilead. A magnificent Graeco-Roman city on an ancient site, beautifully preserved by the desert sands, Jerash is justly famous for the Triumphal Arch, the Hippodrome, the great elliptical forum, the theatres, baths and gateways, the Roman bridge and the wide street of columns which leads to the Temple of Artemis.Son et lumière programmes run in four different languages (French, English, German and Arabic). Other languages can be catered for upon request. For information on festivals in Jerash, seeSpecial Events in the Social Profile section below.

Irbid, which is 77km (49 miles) from Amman, is a city of Roman tombs and statues, and narrow streets with close-packed shops and arched entrances. Umm Qais in the far north of the country, the Biblical ?Gadara?, dominates the area round Lake Tiberias (Sea of Galilee). Once a city favoured by the Romans for its hot springs and theatres, it had declined to a small village by the time of the Islamic conquests. Its ruins, however, are still impressive: the Acropolisbuilt in 218BC, the forum, the colonnaded street with still-visible chariot tracks and the Nymphaeum and remains of a large basilica. Returning along the northwest border from Umm Qais to Jerash through the lush scenery of the Jordan River Valley,one can visit the town of AlHammeh, in sight of the Israeli-occupied Golan Heights, a town known for its hot springs and mineral waters; and Pella, once a city of the Roman Decapolis, now being excavated, and the hilltop castle of Qalaat al-Rabadh built by the Arabs in defence against the crusaders. The scenery in this surprisingly fertile part of Jordan is often very beautiful, especially in the spring when the Jordan Valley and surrounding area is covered in flowers.

East of Amman

Towards Azraq and beyond is the vast desert which makes up so much of Jordan. Within this arid landscape are the fertile oases of the Shaumari and Azraq Wetland Parks, now run with the help of the World Wildlife Fund. Wild animals once native to Jordan, such as the oryx and gazelle, are being re-introduced, while the wetlands are visited by thousands of migratory birds each year. The Shaumari was opened in October 1983 in an attempt to protect the country's dwindling oryx population. There are plans to open a further ten wildlife reserves which will cover more than 4100 sq km (1580 sq miles). The project is being organised by the Jordanian Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature, a body which has recently stepped up its efforts to protect the country's wildlife and to prevent pollution affecting the very busy port of Aqaba. Severe fines are imposed on anyone contravening Jordan's strict laws on these matters.

Also in the east are the desert Umayyad castles (Qasr) of Amra and Al-Kharanah. Built as hunting lodges and to protect caravan routes, they are well preserved with frescoes and beautiful vaulted rooms.

West of Amman

Salt, once the Biblical ?Gilead?, is a now a small town set in a fertile landscape, retaining much of its old character as a former leading city of Transjordan. Filled with the character, sights, sounds and aromas of an old Arab town with its narrow souk, its innumerable flights of steps, and its donkeys and coffee houses, it has a tolerant, friendly, oriental atmosphere. 24km (15 miles) from Amman is Iraq al-Amir,the only Hellenistic palace still to be seen in the Middle East.

South of Amman

The Dead Sea, 392m (1286ft) below sea level and the lowest point on earth, glistens by day and night in an eerie, dry landscape. The Biblical cities of Sodom and Gomorrah are thought to be beneath its waters. Supporting no life and having no outlet, even the non-swimmer can float freely in the rich salt water. The Dead Sea at the end of the River Jordan is the natural barrier between Jordan and the occupied West Bank.

There are three routes from Amman to Aqaba, the most picturesque being The King's Highway, the whole length of which is dotted with places of interest. Madaba and nearby Mount Nebo, where Moses is said to have struck the rock, were both flourishing Byzantine towns and have churches and well-preserved mosaics. In Madaba there are also ancient maps of 6th-century Palestine, a museum and an old family carpet-making industry which uses ancient looms. Off the Highway is Mukawir, a small village near the ruins of Machaerus of Herod Antipas, where Salome danced. From the summit of nearby Qasr al-Meshneque,where St John was beheaded, is a magnificent view of the Dead Sea, and sometimes even of Jerusalem and the Mount of Olives.Nearby Zarqa Main has hot mineral-water springs. Rugged scenery characterises this area; deep gorges, waterfalls, white rocks, small oases, birds and wild flowers. Further south on the Highway is Kerak, a beautiful medieval town surrounded by high walls and with a castle. Other places of historical, scenic or religious interest along the route before Petra include Mutahand Mazar,Tafila,Edomite Qasr Buseirahand the magnificent crusader hill fortress, Shaubek Castle.

Petra is one of the wonders of the Middle-Eastern world: a gigantic natural amphitheatre hidden in the rocks out of which a delicately coloured city with immense façades has been carved; it was lost for hundreds of years and only rediscovered in 1812. The temples and caves of Petra rest high up above a chasm, with huge white rocks forming the Bab, or gate, of theSiq, the narrow entrance which towers over 21m (70ft) high. Until recently the rock caves were still inhabited by Bedouins. Most of this unique city was built by the Nabatean Arabs in the 5th and 6th centuries BC as an important link in the caravan routes. It was added to by the Romans who carved out a huge theatre and, possibly, the spectacular classical façade of the Khazneh(treasury). Away from the road, it is only possible to reach Petra on horseback. This city of rock stairs, rock streets, rock-carved tombs and dwellings and temples has among its other attractions the Qasr al-Bint castle shrine and the Al-Habiscaves and museums; while a short distance away from the more commercialised site of Petra is Al-Barid where a number of tombs lie in solitude and tranquillity among the rocks. There is a rest house in Petra built against the rock wall near the beginning of theSiq, where it is advisable to book early in season, but is bitterly cold in winter. A variety of hotels offer accommodation. The last stop south before Aqaba is Wadi Rum, about five hours from Amman by road. A Beau Geste-type fort run by the colourful Desert Patrol (Camel Corps), it was built to defend the valley in a great plain of escarpments and desert wilderness, and is a place strongly associated with T E Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia). Many Bedouins, of a tribe thought to be descended from Muhammed, still live in the valley in tents. Some tours will arrange trips into the desert to stay with a Bedouin tribe or camping in the valley, a round trip being 97km (60 miles).

Aqaba: At the northeast end of the Gulf of Aqabais Jordan's only port, and can be reached from Amman by road or air. It has grown considerably over the past few years, both as a port and as a tourist centre, due in part to its excellent beach and watersports facilities, and its low humidity and hot climate. The town has a variety of small shops and several good restaurants, and it leaves most of the other tourist facilities to be provided for by the hotels. These include windsurfing, scuba diving, sailing and fishing. Most hotels have swimming pools, and will offer continental and some traditional cuisine. Some provide business and conference facilities and excursions to Amman, Petra and Wadi Rum. A year-round resort, Aqaba boasts some of the best coral-reef diving and snorkelling sites in the world, often very close to shore, in a water temperature which rarely falls below 20?C.

The best time to visit Jordan is in spring or autumn, when you can dodge the baking sun of summer and the freezing winds of winter. Although winter can be bitterly cold in most of the country, the Red Sea area and Aqaba are still very pleasant. If you're planning to travel through the rest of the Middle East, try heading north into Turkey around spring, or south into Egypt by autumn.

 


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