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The
road to Beiteddine leaves the coastal highway
17 kilometers beyond Beirut, just a few kilometers after the town of
Damour. From there it climbs quickly along the beautiful Damour
river valley for 26 kilometers to an elevation of 850 meters at
Beiteddine. The most spectacular view of the palace and its
surroundings is from the village of Deir El Qamar (Monastery of the
moon), five kilometers before Beiteddine.
The Beiteddine palace complex, Lebanon's best example of early
19th century Lebanese architecture, was built over a thirty year
period by Emir Bechir El Chehab II, who ruled Mount-Lebanon for more
than half
a century.
Beiteddine - Surrounded by history
In the Middle Ages
Lebanon was divided up into fiefs governed by emirs or hereditary
sheikhs. But in the |
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Dar El Harim façade |
early years
of the 17th century, Emir Fakhr Ed Dine II Maan (d. 1635) succeeded
in extending his power throughout these princedoms and eventually
ruled an area corresponding to present-day Lebanon.
His first capital was at Baaqline but because of a chronic water
shortage, he was forced to move to Deir El Qamar where there were
copious springs.
When the Maan dynasty died out at the end of the 17th century, the
land was inherited by the emirs of the Chehab family. It was Emir
Bechir Chehab II who decided to leave Deir El Qamar and to construct
his own palace at Beiteddine (House of faith), a druze hermitage
which today is part of the palace.
In
1812, Emir Bechir obliged each of his able-bodied males subjects to
provide two days of unpaid labor in order to ensure a plentiful
supply of water at his new seat of government. Within two years the
project was completed.
The palace remained the emir's residence until his forced exile
in 1840. After the Ottomans suppressed the emirate in 1842 the
building was used by the Ottoman authorities as the government
residence. Later, under the French Mandate following World War I, it
was used for local administrative purposes.
The General Directorate of Antiquities carefully restored
Beiteddine to its original grandeur after it was declared a historic
monument in 1934. Beginning in 1943, the year of Lebanon's
independence, the palace became the summer residence of the
president. Bechara El Khoury was the first president to use
Beiteddine and he brought back the remains of Emir Bechir from
Istanbul, where he had died in 1850.
Today Beiteddine, with its museums and its gardens, is one of
Lebanon's major tourist attractions. Qualified guides are available
for your tour through this monument, which is open daily. A visit to
Beiteddine is ideally combined with nearby Dei Al Qamar.
V I S I T I N
G T H E P A L A C E
Dar El Baraniyyeh,
The outer section of the Palace.
On the approach to the palace a large parking area offers some
of the best views of the buildings and grounds. The main entrance
leads to a 107x45 meter courtyard, Al-Midan, where horsemen,
courtiers and visitors used to meet for various gatherings. From
here, too, the Emir would leave with his retinue in solemn
procession, either for war or for the hunt. On the ground floor is a
museum, inaugurated on May 1, 1991. Through photographs, documents
and manuscripts, it tells the life story of Kamal Jumblatt, member
of Parliament, cabinet minister and Druze leader.
Along the right side of this court is a two-story wing, Al-Madafa,
which was once used for receiving guests. it was the custom that
anyone of rank would keep open house for passerby and that a visitor
would not be asked for his identity or the purpose of his journey
until he had been there for three days.
A staircase leads to the upper floor, which was entirely
restored in 1945 using old documents as a guide. Before the recent
war in Lebanon this wing housed an important museum of the feudal
period. today it is the location of the Rashid Karami Archeological
and Ethnographic Museum. The large collection includes pottery from
the Bronze and Iron Ages, Roman glass, gold jewelry, lead sarcophagi
and glazed pottery from the Islamic period.
In the first room on this floor is a complete model of
Beiteddine, which will help the visitor visualize the size and
configuration of the buildings. More rooms, devoted to ethnographic
subjects, contain a collection of ancient and modern weapons, as
well as costumes of the feudal period. |
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The courtyard of
Dar El Wousta |
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Dar El Wousta, the middle
section
of the Palace.
The entrance to the central section of the palace is from a
double stairway at the far western end of the courtyard, where a
bust
of Kamal Jumblatt stands. From this point on, the impressive but
austere appearance of the outside court and buildings gives way
to the delightful architecture and greenery that has given
Beiteddine its nickname of Lebanon's Alhambra. |
From
the main entrance of this wing a vaulted passage at the top of
the double staircase turns to the right, towards the apartments
of the Hamade Sheikhs of the
Shouf who were responsible for the protection of the Palace.
A turn to the left brings you to the offices of the Emir's
Ministers. The wing opens out onto an elegant courtyard whose
fountains accent the graceful arcades on three sides
of the court is completely open in order to provide full
enjoyment of the countryside. |
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Dar El Kataba
façade |
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The
luxurious rooms along this court, the corners of which are
occupied by wooden balconies or kiosks called comandaloune, are
richly decorated with mosaics and marquetry and fitted with the
best of traditional oriental furnishings. These rooms served as
offices and receptions salons for the emir's minister,
secretaries and members of his court. One of the rooms is
attributed to the emir's Minister, Boutros Karami. |
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walls and ceilings are covered in intricately carved and painted
wood, embellished with Arab calligraphy. The marble fountains
and panels were ingeniously designed to cool the surroundings in
summer, while brass braziers stood ready to warm the chilly
stone interiors in winter. the northern side of this court, Dar
Al Kataba, served as offices for the secretaries. |
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Dar El
Harim, the private
apartments.
At the far end of this courtyard rises the Dar El Harim,
composed of a large and richly decorated façade, the Upper Harem,
the reception room or salamlik, the Lower Harem, the kitchens and
the baths.
The monumental archway opens on the left to the reception wing,
which is made up of a waiting room and a hall. These are by far the
most ornate room in the palace.
The waiting room has a single column supporting the vault and is
known as "the room of the column". The reception hall itself, or
salamlik, is built on two levels, the first notable for a fine
mosaic floor and walls covered with carved marble, sculptures and
inscriptions. One of these inscriptions reads:" The homage of a
governor towards God is to observe justice, for more than a thousand
months of prayer."
Emir Bechir sat on the raised platform at the bay end of the
room, smoking his long pipe or narguileh, as he dispensed
justice with dignity and absolute power. Here the emir held court
and carried out the business of his emirate.
On the right of the entry door is the Upper Harem, with the
so-called "Lamartine's room" and another important room called "Mahkamat",
or tribunal.
The corridor leads to the Lower Harem with the private apartments of
the emir and his family set around a courtyard enclosed on four
sides.
Two liwans on the sides of this court allowed the family members to
enjoy the fresh air.
On the angle of the Upper and the Lower Harems are the kitchens
where servants prepared the daily meals for more than 500 people.
The food was taken from there to the reception and living areas
where it was placed on trays set in front of the divans of
the notables and their visitors.
From the balconies of the Dar El Harim, which look out across a vast
terraced valley, can be seen the most spectacular view of the
palace's surroundings. |
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Hammam, or Baths
At the northern edge of the Dar El Harim section is the "hammam",
one of the most beautiful in the Arab world. Following a
tradition dating to Roman times, these baths comprise a cold
room or frigidarium, used for undressing and for relaxation
before and after the bath. In this reception room one could
discuss politics or literature or listen to the latest rumors.
The second section of the baths comprise the lukewarm room, or
the tepidarium. This was used for massages and served as a
transition between the cold and warm sections. The third part
comprised the warm rooms or caldarium. The paving stones of the
baths were supported by brick pillars and vault with heated air
passing underneath.
Beyond the baths is the tree-shaded tomb of Sitt Chams, the
first wife of the emir. She is buried in a domed tomb |
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Hammam:the cold
room |
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surrounded by cypress trees in the corner of the gardens. When
the ashes of the emir were brought back from Istanbul in 1947
they were placed in the same sepulcher. |
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The Stables and
the Mosaic Exhibition
Dar El Wousta and Dar
El Harim are built over a series of recently and beautifully
restored vaulted stables that used to accommodate 600 horses and
their riders, as well as the 500 foot-soldiers of the emir's
guard. Today these stables hold an extensive collection of
Byzantine mosaics. The largest of them come from the ruins of a
Byzantine church in the coastal city of Jiyyeh, south of Beirut.
the Greek inscriptions appearing on the mosaics date them to the
5th and 6th centuries A.D. Mosaics from other sites are
displayed in these stables and the adjacent gardens.
Near the mosaic museum is the hermitage, or Khalwa, a place of
religious seclusion for the Druze. This large room in existence
long before Emir Bechir built the palace, has been restored and
is open to visitors. |
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Mosaics of
colored marble |
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Palace of Emir
Amine |
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Palace of Emir
Amine
A palace was built for
each of the emir's three sons, Qassim, Khalil and Amine. The
palace
of Emir Qassim, now in ruins, is perched on a promontory facing
the great Palace. Today Emir Khalil's palace is used as the
Serail of Beiteddine, the seat of local administration.
As for the palace of Emir Amine, which dominates the Beiteddine
complex, it was beautifully restored and converted into a luxury
hotel by the Ministry of Tourism.
Now called the Mir Amine Palace, most of the hotel's 24 rooms
open onto private terraces and a hanging garden. |
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walking distance from Mir Amine Palace is the summer residence
of the Maronite Archbishop of Sidon, formerly Emir Bechir's
country house. Some of the original architectural elements
remain, including a beautiful stone doorway covered with a
pagoda-shaped roof. This elegant doorway is reached by a high
circular staircase easily visible from a distance. |
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