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Caverns sculpted by water
and time
Few caverns in the world
approach the astounding wealth or the extent of those of Jeita. In these
caves and galleries, known to man since Paleolithic times, the action of
water has created cathedral-like vaults beneath the wooded hills of
Mount Lebanon.
Geologically, the caves provide a tunnel or escape route for the
underground river, which is the principal |
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source of the
Nar el-Kalb (Dog River). Located some 20 kilometers along the highway
North of Beirut, a large sign indicates the right turn from Zouk Mickael
village, just beyond the tunnel. The caverns are on two levels. The
lower galleries, discovered in 1836 and opened to the public in 1958,
are visited by boat. The upper galleries, opened in January 1969, can be
seen on foot.
To mark the inauguration of the upper galleries, arranged by the
Lebanese artist and sculptor Ghassan Klink, a concert was organized in
the cave featuring electronic music by the French composer François
Bayle. Other cultural events have taken place in this unusual venue,
including a concert by the German composer Carl-Heinrich Stochhausen in
November 1969.
Jeita remained a popular attraction until the recent Lebanese
conflict forced it to close in the mid 1970’s. Upon the initiative of
Minister of Tourism Nicolas Fattouche, the Ministry charged the German
company "Mapas" to renovate and re-equip its facilities by the most
modern techniques and to operate the complex. On July 6, 1995, this
natural wonder was again open to the public. |
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JEITA
REDISCOVERED
The modern discovery of the
underground river of Jeita dates to 1836 and is attributed to Reverend
William Thomson, an American missionary who ventured some 50 meters into
the cave. Reaching the underground river, he fired a shot from his gun
and the resulting echoes convinced him that he had found a cavern of
major importance.
In 1873 W.J. Maxwell and H.G. Huxley, engineers with the Beirut
Water Company, and their friend Reverend Daniel Bliss, president of the
Syrian Protestant College (later the American University of Beirut)
explored these caverns. In two expeditions carried out in 1873 and 1874
they penetrated 1,060 meters into the grotto-principal source of the
Nahr el-Kalb that supplies Beirut with water. They were finally stopped
by "Hell's Rapids", where the river flows in torrents over razor sharp
rocks.
Like explorers everywhere, Dr. Bliss, Mr. Maxwell and the other
engineers could not resist recording their names and the year on
"Maxwell's Column", a great limestone pillar some 625 meters from the
entrance.
About 200 meters further on, in the so-called "Pantheon', they wrote
their names and details of the expedition on paper, sealed it in a
bottle and placed it on top of a stalagmite. The action of the lime-
impregnated water has since covered the bottle with a thin white film,
permanently |
fixing it to the
stone. Between 1892 and 1940 further expeditions were carried out,
mostly by English, American or French explorers. These efforts brought
them to a depth of 1,750 meters.
Since the 1940's, Lebanese explorers, notably the members of the
Speleo-Club of Lebanon founded by the first Lebanese speleologist Lionel
Ghorra, have pushed even deeper into the Jeita grotto. Their methodical
exploration revealed the great underground system of the upper and lower
galleries which is now known to a depth approaching
9 kilometers.
The upper galleries, discovered in August 1958 by Lebanese
speleologists, required a hazardous climb to 650 meters above the
entrance of the underground river. Altogether, 2,130 meters of this
gallery have been explored. |
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INSIDE
THE CAVERNS
In summer you can visit both
the upper and lower galleries while enjoying the refreshingly cool
temperature inside the caves. The lower section is sometimes closed
in winter when the water level is high, but the extensive upper
galleries are open all year.
Plan on about two hours for the tour, which includes a boat ride
through the lower galleries, the visit to the upper galleries on
foot and a film presentation. |
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The Lower Galleries
This part of the cavern
takes you to a beautiful underworld millions of years in the making.
Both the 600-meter boat trip on a subterranean lake is only a
sampling of the system that has been explored for almost 6,910
meters.
The first impression is the sound of rushing water |
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sensation of clean cold. But the roar of the waterfall at the
entrance gives way to profound silence as you glide deeper into the
cave. An effective new lighting system illuminates expert rock
climbers-and marvel at the columns and sculptures fashioned by those
great architects-water and time.
The Upper Galleries
The approach to these dry
galleries through a 120-meter-long concrete tunnel does little to
prepare you for the surprising world beyond. Formed several million
years before the lower caverns, this section shows what the entire
cave system was like before geological conditions displaced the
subterranean river to its present level.
For 650 meters you wind your way through different levels of the
caverns, contemplating the flowing stone draperies and other
formations. Perhaps the most dramatic sight is the yawning canyons
and sink holes, some seen at a drop of over a hundred meters. |
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Getting
Around Jeita
Leaving your car in the
parking area, you purchase entry and parking tickets. From here the
fun begins with a short ride up the mountain in one of four Austrian
cable cars.
If you prefer
land transportation, a Disney-like "train" pulled by a small replica
of a steam engine makes regular runs up and down the hill between
the parking area and the upper galleries. |
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Near the entrance to the upper galleries is an air conditioned theater
which has scheduled showings of a film about Jeita in several languages.
Check which time the language you want is shown so you can coordinate
the film with your visit to the cave.
The tickets you have bought
double as access cards and are inserted at the entry gates of the upper
and lower galleries and for the cable car. Also keep them handy for the
train and the theater. When departing, your parking ticket is needed to
exit the gate.
The facility has several restaurants, snack bars and restrooms as
well as souvenir shops selling Lebanese handicrafts. Open Tuesday
through Thursday from 9 am to 6 pm and Friday through Sunday from 9 am
to 7 pm. Closed on Mondays, unless it is a national holiday.
- Photography is not permitted inside the caves - |
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