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Tripoli (Trablos),
85 kilometers north of Beirut, has a special character all its own.
Thanks to its historical wealth, relaxed lifestyle and thriving business
climate, this is a city where modern and medieval blend easily into a
lively and hospitable metropolis. Known as the capital of the North,
Tripoli is Lebanon’s second largest city.
Forty-five buildings in the city, many dating from the 14th century,
have been registered as historical sites. Twelve mosques from Mamluke
and Ottoman times have survived along with an equal number of
“madrassas” or theological schools. Secular buildings include the
“hammam” or the bathing-
house, which followed the classical pattern of Roman-Byzantine baths,
and the “khan” or caravansary. The souks, together with the
“khans”, |
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an agglomeration of various trades where tailors, jewelers, perfumers,
tanners and soap-makers work in surroundings that have changed very
little over the last 500 years.
Tripoli in History
Habitation of the site of
Tripoli goes back to at least the 14th century B.C., but it wasn't until
about the 9th century B.C. that the Phoenicians established a small
trading station there. Later, under the Persians, it was home to a
confederation of the Phoenician city states of Sidon, Tyre and Arados
Island. Built on the trade and invasion route near the Abu Ali River,
Tripoli's strategic position was enhanced by offshore islands, natural
ports and access to the interior.
Under the successors of Alexander the Great during the Hellenistic
period, Tripoli was used as a naval shipyard. There is also evidence
that it enjoyed a period of autonomy at the end of Seleucid era.
Under Roman rule, starting with the takeover of the area by Pompey
in 64-63 B.C.,
the Romans built several monuments here. The Byzantine city of Tripolis,
which by then extended to the south, was destroyed, along with other
Mediterranean coastal cities, by an earthquake and tidal wave in 551. |

The octagonal Fatimid
construction
in the Citadel |
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After 635,
Tripoli became a commercial and shipbuilding center under the
Omayyads. It achieved semi-independence under the Fatimid Dynasty
when it developed into a center of learning.
At the beginning of the 12th century the Crusaders laid siege to
the city, finally entering it in 1109. The conquest caused extensive
destruction, including the burning of Tripoli's famous library, the
Dar il-'ilm, with its thousands of volumes.
During the Crusaders' 180-year rule
the city was the capital of the
"County of Tripoli". But Crusader Tripoli fell in 1289 to the
victorious Mamluke Sultan |
Qalaoun, who
ordered the old port city (today Al-Mina) destroyed and a new built
inland near the old castle. It was at this time that numerous
religious and secular buildings were erected, many of which still
survive today.
During the long Turkish Ottoman rule (1516 - 1918) Tripoli
retained its prosperity and commercial importance and in these years
more buildings were added to the city's architectural wealth. |
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Archeological Excavations
Tripoli has not been
extensively excavated because the ancient site lies buried beneath
the modern city of Al-Mina. However, a few accidental finds are now
in museums. Excavations in Al-Mina revealed part of the ancient
southern port quay and a necropolis from the end of the Hellenistic
period. A sounding made in the Crusader castle uncover Late Bronze
Age, Iron Age, Roman, Byzantine and Fatimid remains. |
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S E L E C T E D S
I T E S O F T R I P O L
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The Citadel of
Tripoli |
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1 - The
Citadel
Overlooking the city is the
imposing Citadel of Tripoli known as Qal’at Sinjil (Saint Gilles)
which has been renovated and changed many times during its history.
Today the castle’s main features are an octagonal Fatimid
constructions converted to a church by the Crusaders, some Crusader
structures of the 12th-13th centuries, a number of 14th century
Mamluke additions, as well as additions |
made by the
Ottomans in the 16th century. The present state of this huge
fortress
(140 meters long and 70 meters wide) is largely the result of
extensive restoration work by Mustafa Barbar Agha, governor of
Tripoli at the beginning of the 19th century. |
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2 - Church of
St. John of the Pilgrims Mount
Significant remains of this
Crusader church were found in the Maronite Cemetery of Saint John about
200 meters south of the Castle on Abu Samra hill There are two joined
chapels, the larger of which has a semi-circular apse. the smaller one,
with a rectangular apse, was reserved for funerary use. The church was
surrounded by a large Crusader cemetery. |
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3 - The Great
Mosque
Begun in 1294 and completed
in 1315, the Great Mosque was built on the ruined 12th century Crusader
cathedral of St. Mary of the Tower.
Its large courtyard is surrounded by porticos and a domed and vaulted
prayer hall. Inside, one can still see elements of Western architecture
from the old church, including the northern entrance and the Lombard
style bell tower which was transformed into the minaret.
The many foundation plaques and decrees inscribed in the great
Mosque and its surrounding madrassas not only inform us about the
building but reveal details of the daily life of the Mamluke period. |

The Great Mosque |
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4 - Taynâl
Mosque
This important mosque was
built in 1336 by Saif ed-Dine Taynâl on the site of a ruined Crusader
Carmelite church. The adjoining domed mausoleum holds the tomb of the
founder. Some elements of the original structure were re-used in the
mosque, for example, the two rows of granite columns with late Roman
capitals which stand in the middle of the first prayer hall. The
entrance of the second prayer hall is a unique example of the
architectural decoration in Tripoli during the Mamluke era.
5 - Al-Muallaq Mosque
The name means "hanging
mosque", possibly because it is on the second floor.
This small mosque, built in the middle of the 16th century, has a plain
whitewashed interior with steps leading down to an attractive courtyard
garden.
The minaret is octagonal and unadorned. |
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6 - Burtasiyat
Madrassa-Mosque
The beautiful Burtasiyat
Madrassa-Mosque was built during the first quarter of the 14th
century A.D.
This domed structure has a square minaret erected above the entrance
arch and is ornamented with double windows which have black and
white stone arches.
The dark stone portal is decorated with stalactites and the mihrab
is covered with an ornate golden mosaic. |
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Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque |
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7 - Al-Qartâwiyat
Madrassa
The madrassa is known
for the fine workmanship of its ceilings decorated with honey-comb
patterns and stalactites, and its elegant façade of alternate black and
white facings. Built during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D.,
Al-Qartâwiyat is probably Tripoli's most ornate building and the only
one with a prayer hall covered by an oval dome.
8 - Madrassa al Tuwashiyat
Built during the second half
of the 15th century, this structure and its elaborate mausoleum are
constructed of sandstone in decorative black and white patterns.
The portal is higher than the façade of the building and decorated with
shell motifs embellished by radiating zigzag motif, stalactites and
twisted colonettes.
9 - Khanqash
This unique building in
Lebanon was constructed during the second half of the 15th century to
house Muslim mystics or Sufis. It is designed with an open courtyard and
pool. The courtyard is surrounded by small rooms and a raised platform,
or iwan, behind an arch of alternating black and white stones. The arch
is supported by granite columns.
10 - Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne
This public bathing-house was
given to the city by its Mam-luke governor 'Izz ed-Dîne Aybak. The
governor, who died in 1298, is buried in a mausoleum beside the
hammam. In building these baths, he used choice remains from the
Crusader church and hospice of Saint James. The front portal is
decorated with an inscribed fragment between two Saint-James shells, and
the inner door is surmounted by the pas-chal lamb. The Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne
was in continual use until recently and it is now under restoration.
11 - Hammam el-Abed
(near Khan es-Saboun)
Tripoli's only functioning hammam is Hammam el-Abed, probably
built at the end of the 17th century. It has the typical pierced domes
of Mamluke and Ottoman era public baths. The interior, with its
cushions, central fountain and traditional fittings, is a living museum. |
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The interior of
Hammam Al Jadid |
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12 - Hammam Al Jadid:
Built around 1740, and called the “New Bath”, this is by far the
largest “hammam” in the city, although it has not been in
operation since the 1970’s, its faded grandeur still stirs the
imagination. |
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13 - Khân
Al-Khayyatin
The Khân Al-Khayyatin or Tailors’ Khan, is one
of the oldest in Tripoli, dating to the first half of the 14th century.
It was probably built on the remains
of a Byzantine and Crusader monument in the center of the ancient
commercial suburb which controlled passage over the Abu ‘Ali river.
Thus, this “khan” has a different plan than the others in the city.
The restored structure consists
of a long passageway with tall arches on each side and ten transverse
arches. Just at its western entrance stands a granite column surmounted
by a marble Corinthian capital.
14 - Khân Al-Misriyyîn
The Khân Al-Misriyyîn
(Caravansary of the |
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Khan Al Khayyatin |
| Egyptians) was
probably built in the first half of the 14th century. The traditional
arcaded two-story khan has an open courtyard with a fountain in
the center.
15 - Souk Al-Haraj
A unique sight, this covered 14th century bazaar has a high vaulted
ceiling supported by granite columns which may have originally been part
of Roman or Crusader structures. A total of 14 granite shafts can be
seen along the north, south and east sides. Today this space is occupied
by sellers of floor mats, pillows and mattresses.
16 - Lions' Tower
While most of the numerous
coastal towers and fortifications which protected Tripoli during Mamluke
times have disappeared or been encroached upon by modern buildings, the
mid-15th century Tower of the Lions is still remarkably preserved. It
was given this name in the 19th century because of the lions carved in
relief that once stood above the entrance. The tower is actually a
fortress two stories high with lofty vaulted ceilings. the west portal
is in the typical Mamluke black and white stone pattern. From the
outside you can see how the builders placed Roman columns horizontally
in the wall reinforcements.
Tripoli Today
Modern Tripoli, which has a
population of about 500,00, is divided into two parts: El-Mina, (the
port area and site of the ancient city) and the town of Tripoli proper.
The Medieval city at the foot of
the Crusader castle is where most of the historical sites are located.
Surrounding this is a modern metropolis which is occupied with commerce,
banking and recreation. The area known as "at-Tall", dominated by an
Ottoman clock tower (built in 1901/2) in the heart of downtown Tripoli,
is the transportation center and terminus for most taxi routes.
When shopping in the old souks or
downtown area, remember that gold is a good buy. Other popular items are
Tripoli’s famous sweets and traditional olive-oil based soap, water
pipes and brass work. Al Mina, the port area, is a good place to find
sea food restaurants and fish markets. The city’s most comfortable
hotels and Western-style restaurants can be found in the beach resorts
south of the city.
Tripoli International Fair
Tripoli has a permanent
fairground designed by the famous brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer.
Here important exhibitions, trade fairs and other events regularly take
place.
If You Have Time
Offshore Islands: Just
offshore is a string of small islands. the largest, known as the Island
of Palm Trees or Rabbit's Island, is now a nature reserve for green
turtles and rare birds. Declared a protected area by UNESCO in 1992,
camping, fire building or depredation is forbidden. This island also
holds Roman and Crusader remains.
Qalamoun, south of Tripoli, is known for its brass
industry. The roadside is lined with small workshops and showrooms where
brass bowls, candlesticks and other objects are hammered out in the old
tradition.
Notes for Visitors
- A tourism information Office is
located on Abdel Hamid Karami Square.
- Wear comfortable sturdy shoes for walking around the old town and the
souks.
Women should be prepared with head scarves if they wish to visit
mosques.
- Although some of the monuments are kept locked, keys can usually be
obtained
from a nearby shop. |
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