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The Bride of the Beqaa
A red-roofed town set among the eastern foothills of Mount
Sannine, Zahlé enjoys a prime location in the Beqaa valley. Snowcapped
mountains tower above it in winter, while in summer its 945-meter
elevation keeps the air light and dry.
The city center spreads along both banks of the Bardouni River, with
the older section of town on the upper elevations of the west bank and
the shopping district on the east bank.
At the northern end of town is the Bardouni river valley known as Wadi
el-Aarayesh (Grape Vine Valley) – the site of Zahlé's famous outdoor
restaurants. Zahlé styles itself "The City of Wine and Poetry",
and with good reason. In this century alone some 50 poets and writers
were born here |
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and almost as
many excellent wines and araks have been produced in the area.
The romance of wine and poetry is balanced by Zahlé's more
businesslike position as the administrative and commercial capital of
the Beqaa valley (42.27% of Lebanon's territory) as well as its rank as
the country's third largest city (population 150,000).
Zahlé is also an agricultural town which produces vegetables, fruit,
grains and most importantly, grapes.
Tucked away from Lebanon's busy
coastal centers, the people of Zahlé have developed their own brand of
individualism and way of doing things. Even their spoken Arabic has a
particular flair. The city's reputation for intellectual vigor comes
from a long line of writers, thinkers and poets who have contributed to
Lebanon's cultural and political scene.
Zahlé in History
Zahlé was founded about 300
years ago in an area whose past reaches back some five millennia. In the
early 18th century the new town was divided into three separate
quarters, each of which had its own governor.
The city enjoyed a brief period as the region's first independent
state in the 19th century when it had its own flag and anthem.
Zahlé was burned in 1777 and 1791, and it was burned and plundered
in 1860.
But during the rule of the Mutasarrifiah, Zahlé began to regain its
prosperity. The railroad line which came through in 1885 improved
commerce and the town became the internal "port" of the Beqaa and Syria.
It was also the center of agriculture and trade between Beirut and
Damascus, Mosul and Baghdad. Considered the birthplace of the Lebanese
army, Zahlé has played a major role in the political life of the
country. |
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Zahlé's
Bardouni Restaurants
The Bardouni is a river that flows out of Mount Sannine and down
through Zahlé. It is also a name synonymous with Lebanon's famous mezze
and the delights of outdoor dining.
The Bardouni restaurant tradition began over a hundred years ago
with a few simple riverside cafes. Today it is a virtual bazaar of
tree-shaded eating places known as "casinos," every one more inviting
than the next. Not surprisingly, competition is fierce, so each
establishment outdoes itself with fountains, pools, and cooling shade to
tempt potential customers.
Here you can enjoy the traditional Lebanese |
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A Bardouni
restaurant |
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served nowhere else. To add to the sense of timelessness, delicious
mountain bread is baked before your eyes and a man in baggy trousers and
fez is on hand to pour Lebanese coffee. He can also provide diners with
a hubble-bubble (water pipe). On the cliffs above the Bardouni are the
restaurants of Kaa el Reem, also known for their excellent food and
atmosphere. |
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Ksara Winery |
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Wine and Arak
Zahlé's association with the grape is pervasive, for it lies at
the heart of an area that has been making wine since early
antiquity. At the city's southern entrance the statue of a graceful
female personifies wine and poetry, but you don't have to look far
to see evidence of the real thing. The hills north of town with
names like Wadi Hadi, Harqat, Bir Ghazour and Tell Zeina are covered
with the neat rows of vineyards that supply Zahle's wine and arak
industries.
Many of the wines have been formally recognized abroad for their
fine quality–equal to some of the |
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Europe. A tour of Zahlé's Ksara winery is a good way to see how wine
and arak are made. Of special interest here are the extensive
underground caves built around a natural grotto known and enlarged
by the Romans. |
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The Monastery of Our
Lady of Najat |
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Local Celebrations
Each year between the 10th and 20th of September Zahlé mounts
its week-long " Festival of the Vine", a celebration shared
with the city's " Flower Festival".
In a carnival-like atmosphere "Miss Vine" is elected and cars are
decorated with flowers representing national symbols.
Zahlé is also famous for its Corpus-Christi festival which dates
back to 1825 when the town was spared the ravages of a contagious
disease. Corpus-Christi is celebrated on the first Thursday of June
with a torch-light parade held on the eve of the festival. |
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morning a mass takes place at Our Lady of Najat Church,
followed by a procession of townspeople carrying the "Holy Bread"
through the streets. |
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W H A T T O S E E
I N Z A H L
E
The Geha House
A good example of Zahlé's
local architecture is the restored Geha House in the old part of
town. Although this is a private home, one can easily appreciate its
courtyard, garden and arched upper galleries – all typical of 17th
century architecture. |
An old underground
tunnel 1,400 meters long leads from the house to the church of St.
Elias (Al-Tuwak). Built by Sheikh Khalil Geha in the early 17th
century, today the seventh generation of the Geha family resides in
this 24-room dwelling.
Other private residences in the same area are the lovely
al-Hindi, Youssef Azar and Wadih Skaf houses. These are several
hundred years old and also designed with arcades and walled gardens. |
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The Geha Residence |
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Old Serail (The
municipality) |
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The Serail
The restored Serail or government house in the old part of town
dates from 1885. This beautiful building, whose architecture
reflects the European and Arab influences of the Ottoman period,
will soon house the offices of the municipality and a museum
illustrating Zahlé's history. |
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At
the start of the 20th century Zahle began building hotels to serve its
budding tourist and summer resort trade. Although the "Sohat" (health)
Hotel built in 1878 has been demolished, three establishments from this
era can still be seen: the Hotel America, the Hotel Akl and the
Hotel Kadri (undergoing restoration).
The Kadri, built in 1906, has seen its share of history. The hotel
was taken over by the Turkish
army in 1914 and used as headquarters
and a hospital during World War I.
It was from the Kadri as well that in 1920 the French Mandate
authorities announced annexation |
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Hotel America in Zahlé |
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areas which would give "Greater Lebanon" its present-day borders.
The Souk al-Blatt,
or "tiled market" is a market street leading to one of the oldest parts
of the city. A large part of Zahle's history was written in this souk,
where in former times travelers to and from Syria, Baghdad and Palestine
bought and sold their goods. A project is planned to restore the street
and make it a center for crafts and other traditional activities.
Housh El-Zarani
Housh El-Zarani is located
near the post office on the east side of the river. In past centuries
this housh, or market area, was a conglomerate of khans
(caravansaries), craft center and shops. Here shoemakers, woodworkers
weavers, copper workers and saddle makers plied their trades. It was
also an important commercial center where vendors sold agricultural and
industrial products.
Many of the old buildings, embellished by carved ceilings, vaulted
interiors and decorated façades, still stand. Today these structures are
somewhat obscured by modern shopfronts, but projects are afoot to
restore the area. In the meantime you can still discover a taste of old
Zahlé here.
Sayedit Zalzaly
Sayedit Zalzaly is Zahlé's
oldest church. Built in 1700, it originally stood at the center of the
city.
The Church of St. Elias
The Church of St. Elias is
the second church built in Zahlé (1720). This impressive structure is
also known as Al-Moukhallasiah.
The Monastery of Our Lady of Najat
The Monastery (1720)
has the largest bell tower in Lebanon. The monastery is known as well
for a beautiful icon of the Virgin Mary, a gift from the King of
Prussia. |
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Monastery of Saint
Elias at-Tuwak |
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The Monastery of
Saint Elias at-Tuwak,
which dates to 1755, was
renovated in 1880 after a fire. Today it remains one of Zahlés most
venerable monuments.
Tell Shiha Hospital
The landmark Tell Shiha
Hospital, with its red tile roof, was opened in 1948. Located on a
high hill of the same name, this site is a good spot for
photographs. |
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Our Lady of Zahle and the
Beqaa
For the most spectacular view, go to the 54-meter-high hill-top
tower of Our Lady of Zahle and the Beqaa located east of town. here an
elevator takes you up to a viewing platform overlooking the city and the
extending plain.
The structure is crowned with a ten-meter-high bronze statue of the
Virgin, the work of the Italian artist, Pierroti. The base houses a
small chapel seating about 100 people. |
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Our Lady of Zahle
and the Beqaa |
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has some scattered ancient remains indicating a history going back at
least to the Bronze Age (1200 - 3000 B.C.). You can see cave tombs in
the cliffs of the Wadi el-Aarayesh, while Byzantine, Roman and Canaanite
sarcophagi and ancient pottery sherds have been found in the hills
around the city.
Ameneties
All amenities are available in Zahlé, which has plenty of good
shopping and souvenir shops. There are 12 working hotels, numerous
restaurants and cafés, plus recreational centers, night clubs and
cinemas. Sixteen banks do business in this commercial center in addition
to insurance and currency exchange companies.
Zahlé's Tourism Office, a part of the Ministry of Tourism, has
offices on the third floor of the Chamber of Commerce, Industry and
Agriculture building.
Fifty-four kilometers separate Beirut from Zahlé going via Sofar and
Chtaura.
A slightly longer route is by way of Dhour ech-Choueir in Mount Lebanon.
Both roads bring you to the south end of the town.
I N T H E A R
E
A
Karak (Noah's Tomb)
One kilometer beyond Zahle is
the 'tomb of Noah" found in the village mosque. Although Noah's tomb is
42 meters long and 2.5 meters wide, tradition says that he still had to
be buried with his knees bent. There is an ancient Arabic inscriptions
on the walls of the mosque, which was apparently constructed of reused
Roman stones.
Furzol
In nearby Furzol you can see the scant remains of a Roman temple
just off the central roundabout. Beyond the upper end of the town is the
Wadi el-Habis
(Valley of the Hermit) with tombs and rock-cut sanctuaries from Roman
and Byzantine times. A fascinating place to explore, hickers can also
venture up the rocks above the site. At the base of the caves is a café
with paved terraces.
Niha
Located in Niha village, this
restored temple of the Syro-Phoenician god Hadaranes is imposing in its
size and beauty. A much smaller temple nearby, perhaps dedicated to a
divinity related to water, has not been restored.
Upper temples: From Niha a steep rural roadway, usually
traveled by foot, takes you up 300 meters to Husn Niha, or the "fortress
of Niha". Here you will find two partially preserved Roman temples.
Tannayal
This estate, now a farm, is
located on the main road just south of Chtaura and is identified by a
large sign. A visit to Tannayal, owned by the Jesuit fathers since 1860,
is a good introduction to agriculture in the Beqaa valley. In addition
to the usual farm animals you can see a large collection of exotic fowl
including peacock and doves.
A teaching facility for the Faculty of Agriculture at Saint Joseph
University, Tannayel also has vineyards and fruit orchards. An
artificial lake adds to the beauty of the site. Locally produced dairy
products are for sale here too.
Kfar Zabad and Ain Kfar Zabad
A steep footpath from this
village leads to the remains of two Roman temples located on a high
hill. Northeast of the lower temple is a rock-cut relief of Venus
locally known as "Bint el Malik" or the king's daughter.
For those interested in spelunking, a beautiful little cave,
explored to 125 meters, can be entered with the use of ropes. Drive
about a kilometer along a dirt road from Kfar Zabad towards the
Anti-Lebanon mountains. A mountain footpath (15 minutes) brings you to
the entrance. |
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